Why Paint Fails: Peeling, Blistering, Flashing (and How We Prevent It)

By: A Cut Above Painting Co Team

TL;DR – The 60-Second Answer

Most paint problems come down to just a handful of culprits: moisture, surface contamination, porous surfaces, the wrong weather, or the wrong product for the job. Peeling and blistering usually mean the paint couldn’t stick—often thanks to trapped moisture. Flashing (that patchy, uneven sheen) is almost always about uneven absorption or overlapping strokes.

The fix? It’s all about good prep and smart choices: cleaning surfaces thoroughly, using primers that fit the substrate, applying the right film thickness, and scheduling jobs around CSRA’s unpredictable weather. For the tougher cases—like lead paint, masonry salts, or chronic moisture—we stick to the manufacturer’s playbook and follow EPA regulations to the letter. A Cut Above painting co+2Sherwin-Williams+2

What “failure” looks like (and what it’s telling you)

Peeling/flaking: Loss of adhesion—often from painting over chalk, dust, or a glossy/contaminated surface, or from trapped moisture pushing the film off.
Blistering/bubbling: Domed bubbles under the film. Heat blisters form when coating bakes in hot sun; moisture blisters form when water vapor pushes outward. Sherwin-Williams
Flashing/uneven sheen (lap marks): Dull or shiny patches where the surface absorbed unevenly, paint was applied too thin/thick, or the “wet edge” wasn’t maintained. Sherwin-Williams+1
Other common defects: burnishing (shiny rubs in flat paints), surfactant leaching (brownish/tacky streaks on fresh latex), efflorescence (salty bloom on masonry), brush/roller marks. Sherwin-Williams+3Benjamin Moore+3PPG Paints+3

Root causes (in order of how often we see them)

1) Moisture—paint’s #1 enemy

Moisture is the mischief-maker—leaks, vapor pressure, raw end grain, damp wood, or a dewy morning can bubble paint today and peel it tomorrow. Exterior latex right before a sticky, stormy day is especially at risk. We test, time the job, and spec primers/caulks that keep water in its lane. Sherwin-Williams

2) Surface contamination or uneven porosity

When chalk, dust, fingerprints, or porous patches sip paint at different speeds, you get shiny/dull blotches and premature wear. The cure: clean thoroughly, scuff smooth, and prime to equalize absorption. Benjamin Moore+1

3) Wrong sheen/product for the space

Wrong place, wrong finish: flats burnish in hallways, low-washability struggles in baths/kitchens, and interior paints chalk and fade outside. Bottom line: match chemistry and sheen to the environment. Benjamin Moore+1

4) Application outside the safe window

Too hot, too cold, or too humid? The film can’t set right—expect blisters, lap marks, or a flimsy bond. We plan by elevation, track weather, and paint exactly per the TDS. Sherwin-Williams+1

5) Special cases: lead paint & masonry salts

Pre-1978 coatings: disturbing old layers can release hazardous dust—EPA requires Lead-Safe RRP practices. We follow certified procedures when relevant. US EPA+1
Efflorescence: water dissolves salts in masonry; as moisture evaporates, salts crystalize and push coating off or stain it. Control moisture and remove salts before coating. Brick Industry Association+1

Our prevention blueprint (what we do differently)

Step 1: Diagnose the surface (don’t guess)

Moisture & substrate check (wood, Hardie, brick, drywall).
Adhesion verification where needed (ASTM D3359 tape test) to ensure the next coat will bond. ASTM International | ASTM

Step 2: Clean, de-gloss, and create uniform porosity

Wash/degrease, HEPA vacuum dust, sand to a profile, spot prime patches or stained areas to equalize absorption. This greatly reduces flashing. Sherwin-Williams

Step 3: Prime to the problem

Stain-blocking/adhesion primers for slick or stained surfaces.
Alkali-resistant/masonry primers where efflorescence was present (after remediation). Brick Industry Association

Step 4: Right sheen & film build

Choose washable sheens for high-touch areas; respect spread rate and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Benjamin Moore

Step 5: Time jobs to CSRA weather

Avoid painting in direct midday sun; work shaded elevations first; watch dew points and overnight lows to protect fresh films. (See our Exterior Painting approach.) A Cut Above painting co

Failure types

Peeling

Likely cause: poor adhesion to chalky/dirty/glossy surfaces or chronic moisture behind the film.
Fix: remove loose paint, clean/degloss, dry the substrate, prime for adhesion, then apply two uniform coats within the recommended conditions. Sherwin-Williams

Blistering / bubbling

Likely cause: heat or moisture trapped beneath the film; painting over damp surfaces; early exposure to humidity/rain.
Fix: determine heat vs. moisture blisters, correct the source, scrape/sand to sound substrate, prime, and repaint—timed to shade and forecast. Sherwin-Williams

Flashing / lap marks (uneven sheen)

Likely cause: uneven porosity (patched areas), thin/thick application, working too slowly so edges dry, or painting in hot/dry air.
Fix: prime patched/porous zones, keep a wet edge, apply sufficient material at a steady pace; for severe cases, scuff and recoat entire wall. Sherwin-Williams+1

Burnishing (shiny rubs in flat paint)

Likely cause: using flat in high-traffic areas or frequent scrubbing.
Fix: switch to eggshell/satin and allow full cure before washing; clean with non-abrasive methods. Benjamin Moore

Surfactant leaching (brownish streaks soon after painting)

Likely cause: moisture draws surfactants to the surface during early cure, common in bathrooms or cool, damp weather.
Fix: allow full cure, gently wash after cure; improve ventilation; future jobs: plan around humidity. PPG Paints

Efflorescence on brick/stucco

Likely cause: migrating salts due to moisture.
Fix: dry the wall, brush/wash off salts, address water entry, then prime/coating designed for masonry. Seasonal in cooler months; control moisture first. Brick Industry Association+1

DIY red flags—when to call a pro

Pre-1978 home with peeling layers—assume lead until proven otherwise; use EPA Lead-Safe contractors. US EPA
Persistent moisture (peeling returns quickly): may require repairs, dehumidification, or substrate-specific coatings. Sherwin-Williams
Large areas of flashing after patching: you’ll likely need full-wall priming for uniform porosity. Benjamin Moore

Our process in Augusta/CSRA (what you can expect)

On-site assessment of substrates, moisture patterns, and previous coatings.
Protection & prep: washing, sanding/deglossing, repairs, and primer selection that matches the problem (adhesion, stains, masonry).
Manufacturer-spec application: correct film build, “wet edge” management, and staging elevations around sun/forecast.
Quality checks: adhesion/appearance checks; adjustments before final coats.
Final walk-through & care guide so your finish stays beautiful longer.
Learn more on our Interior Painting and Exterior Painting pages. A Cut Above painting co+1

FAQs

What’s the difference between peeling and blistering?
Peeling is the loss of adhesion (film lifts and flakes). Blistering is bubbling under the film—often heat or moisture related. Treatment starts with fixing why it happened, not just repainting. Sherwin-Williams

How do I avoid flashing after patching?
Prime the patch (and sometimes the whole wall) to equalize porosity, then paint while maintaining a wet edge so overlaps don’t dry glossy/dull. Benjamin Moore

Is it safe to sand old peeling paint?
If the home is pre-1978, sanding can create hazardous lead dust. Hire Lead-Safe RRP certified pros. US EPA

Ready to fix a problem area?

Schedule your free estimate with A Cut Above Painting Co. We’ll diagnose the cause, map the fix, and time it to CSRA weather for results that last. A Cut Above painting co+1